vineri, 26 septembrie 2008

others :)

BMW E36 Replacing Brake Pads And Rotors
BMW E36 Oil Change
BMW E36 Thermostat Removal And Coolant Flush
BMW Oil Change
BMW Spark Plug Replacement
BMW Cooling System Flush & FAQ
Fuel Filter Replacement
Oxygen Sensor Replacement E36
Replacing Your Automatic Transmission Fluid
Replacing Your Differential Fluid
BMW Oil Service Light Reset
Air Filter Replacement
Brake Pad Bedding In Procedure
E36 Reset Service Lights
Oil Change
Replacing Your Microfilter
Radiator Flush
Coolant Change
Annual Coolant Change

Aftermarket Alarm Double-Lock aka ANY Alarm Can Double-Lock

http://www.understeer.com/doublelock.shtml

Frequently Asked Questions

http://www.understeer.com/faq.shtml

How to replace an E36 6-cylinder waterpump

http://www.understeer.com/waterpump.shtml

Power Window Fix

http://www.understeer.com/window.shtml

M3 Lip Spoiler Install

http://www.understeer.com/lipspoiler.shtml

Jack Up The Front of a Lowered BMW

http://www.understeer.com/jackupfront.shtml

Fan Clutch Removal Mod

http://www.understeer.com/fanclutchmod.shtml

X-Brace Install

http://www.understeer.com/xbrace.shtml

E30/E36/E46 Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

The lower control arm bushings stabilize the rear of the front lower control arms. After about 50k miles the stock non-M3 bushings can begin to tear. When they do, the rear of the control arm is allowed to move farther than it should causing instability and a shake in the steering wheel when braking at high speeds (over 50mph).

Of course why just replace when you can also... UPGRADE! 318 and 32X models came from the factory with rather weak bushings. The '96+ M3 bushings are much stronger, making the handling more precise and should last much longer. '95 M3 bushings are supposedly even stronger, but offset the position of the control arm for additional caster. Realignment will definitely be necessary if upgrading to '95 M3 bushings, but should not be needed if using non-M3 or '96+ M3 bushings.

The car shown in this write up is a '97 318ti, but all E30, E36 and E46 models should be pretty much identical. All share the same basic front suspension design.

You will need the following parts:
- Jack
- Ramps/jackstands
- 17mm socket
- Air Impact or 1/2" Drive Ratchet
- Hammer and Chisel
- Gear Puller
- Harmonic Balancer Puller
- 6" Long - 3/8"ID (1/2"OD) Square Steel Pipe
- 2x 5/16" All-Thread - 12" Long
- 4x 5/16" Nuts
- 4x 5/16" Fender Washers
- Air Body Saw or Sawzall
- Large Socket ~1-1/4"
- Large Bench Vice
- 5/8" Socket
- 3/8" Drive Ratchet
- 31 12 9 059 288 - E36 Non-M3 Bushings
- 31 12 9 069 035 - E36 '96+ M3 Bushings (optional for non-M3)
- 31 12 9 064 875 - E36 '95 M3 Offset Bushings (optional for non-M3)
- 31 12 9 058 931 - E30 Non-M3 Bushings
- 31 12 9 061 222 - E30 M3 Offset Bushings
- 31 12 6 754 547 - E46 Non-M3 Bushings 
- 31 12 2 229 857 - E46 M3 Bushings

Jack up the front of your car and support it with jackstands. Refer to the "how to jack up your car" article if you're not sure how to do so. If you want to live, do not work under your car without using jackstands!

Use a 17mm socket to remove the bolts securing the control arm bushing brackets to the frame. Use a gear puller to separate the bushing/bracket from the end of the control arm. It's likely that the outer part of the bushing will tear away from the inner. If it does, use the gear puller again to remove the inner part of the bushing from the control arm.

Use an air body saw to cut through the outer ring of the bushing in two places, be careful to not cut in to the bracket... much. Use a hammer and chisel to collapse the outer ring and knock it out of the bracket. Admire your cuts in to the bracket, then get over it, doesn't really hurt anything... unless you cut all the way through the bracket!

Align your new bushing in the bracket so the raised dot on the side of the bracket lines up with the arrow on non-M3 bushings or a similar raised dot on M3 bushings. Use a large bench vice or a hydraulic press to press the new bushing in to the bracket as far as possible. Then use a hammer to "fine tune" the position of the bushing in the bracket. The bushing should be centered in the bracket with even amounts sticking out of both sides.

Get the other bushing ready too. You'll need to install both sides quickly, once you install the new bushing on the control arm, you need to get the car back on the ground in ~30 minutes for the bushings to set up properly.

To whip up a handy tool to install the new bushing/brackets on to the control arms, drill holes in the end of the 3/8" steel pipe that match up with the widest slots on the harmonic balancer puller. The all-thread passes though the holes, washers and nuts secures the all-thread. Assemble the pipe/all-thread/puller on the control arm. The pipe fits though the rear most hole in the control arm, the all-thread pieces bolt though the pipe, the puller slips over the all-thread, washers and nuts hold that mess together. A large socket (1-1/4") makes a great adapter to allow the center bolt of the balancer puller to push the bushing on to the end of the control arm.

Spray window cleaner or soapy water on the inside of the bushing. Use your new, uhh, tool to press the bushing on to the end of the control arm all the way. It is possible to just PUSH the bushing on to the control arm with your bare hands, I've done it before, but it's not at all fun while under the car with nowhere to leverage yourself... you basically just push yourself around on your back. That's why I made a tool this time!

Twist the bracket on the control arm so that the bolt holes line up with the threaded part of the frame. Finger tighten the bolts attaching the brackets to the frame, then tighten them fully with a quick air impact blast. Now finish up the other side quickly, remember 30 minutes, tick tock!

Lower your car back down off the jackstands. Push down on the front of the car a few times so that it's sitting at normal ride height. Do not drive the car for several hours so that the bushing fully stick to the control arms.




Old Bushing


Bolts Out


Gear Puller


Inner Bushing

Cut Outer Ring


Chisel Ring Out


Old Bushing Removed


Alignment Marks


Pressing New Bushing


Centering Bushing


Centered In Bracket


Lube Bushing


Bushing Install


Assembled Tool


Tighten Bolts


Install Tool




BMW E36 Replacing Brake Pads And Rotors


The following information shows the steps to change the rear brake pads and rotors on an E36 chassis.

Disclaimer: The following information details the steps which I used to perform this brake job on my car. If you do similar work on your car be expected to deal with problems that may arise which are not documented in these steps. Some of these problems may require tools which are not listed here or skills that you may not possess and almost always take longer to resolve than expected. Caution must be taken to properly secure your car when working underneath it to avoid injury (or death). Because of the critical nature of the braking system, injury or death may result to yourself or others if the brakes are not properly installed. If you are not comfortable performing these steps, seek help from a qualified person to assist you.

Preparation

Before starting the work shown here I measured the thickness of the rotors in advance and determined that they were very close to the minimum thickness and purchased replacement rotors in advance with the new pads. The minimum thickness for E36 rear rotors are as follows:

Solid: 8.4mm
Vented: 17.4mm
M3 Vented: 18.4mm

The rear rotors on our 328i Cabrio measured in at 17.44mm or .04mm left. Not that much and I figured that it was worthwhile replacing the rotors while I was in there replacing the pads.

A) 2 new brake rotors
B) 2 new rotor mounting bolts
C) set of 4 brake pads
D) Wire coat hanger
E) Anti-squeal brake lubricant
F) Small sledge hammer
G) Hex sockets (6mm and 7mm)
H) Slotted pipe wrench
I) Socket set
J) Gloves
K) Torque wrenches (should span 16 Nm to 110 Nm)
L) Trouble light
M) Brake cleaner

Not shown: Degreasing product (I use Simple Green), rags, anti-seize compound, wire brush

Safety notice: Before changing the rear brakes, you must be prepared to jack up the rear of the car and place both sides of the car on jack stands as both wheels must be removed at the same time. In order for this to be done safely, you must be able to put blocks on the two front tires to prevent it from rolling as you must release the parking brake as well for this job.

The process of changing the brake pads or rotors exposes the brake materials which will release brake dust into the air. Brake dust is harmful and should not be inhaled. Work in a well ventilated area and take the necessary precautions to avoid inhaling brake dust.

Step 1: Block both front wheels securely.

Step 2: Jack up the rear of the car and put both sides on jack stands.

Step 3: Remove both wheels.

Step 4: Release the parking brake.

Step 5: Starting on the passenger side, remove the brake pad wear sensor cable from the retaining clip.

Step 6: Remove the plastic covers from the caliper guide bolts.

Step 7: Using the 7mm hex socket, loosen the upper and lower caliper guide bolts as far as they will go. On the rear brakes, the shock will make it difficult to access the caliper guide bolts so you must use a relatively slim ratchet.

Step 8: Using a flat screwdriver, carefully push the caliper bolts through the rubber bushing so that it can be pulled out from behind.

Step 9: As you will be installing brake pads that are likely much thicker than the ones in place, you will need to push the caliper piston back into the caliper so that the new pads will make it over the rotor. An easy way to do this is to use the wooden handle levered against the shock pulled towards you.

Caution: If your brake fluid reservoir (in the engine compartment) is full close to the top, pushing the piston back into the caliper as stated above may overflow the reservoir. As such, you may need to remove some of the brake fluid from the reservoir if it gets close to the top.

If this technique doesn't push the piston far enough into the caliper, you can use the adjustable pipe wrench - placing a rag over top of the piston so that the rubber piston gasket is not damaged.

Step 10: Using a screwdriver, pop out the anti-rattle clip.

Step 11: Bend the hanger over one of the spring coils.

Step 12: Pull the caliper assembly out from the rotor. Hang the caliper on the other end of the wire hanger so that it does not hang free and strain the brake fluid hose.

Step 13: Carefully disconnect the wear sensor cable clip from the inner brake pad. A small metal clip attached to the end of the sensor cable may fly out when you remove the sensor - don't lose this as you will need it when the sensor is reinstalled.

Step 14: Remove both the inner and outer brake pads.

Step 15: Using a 16mm socket, remove the two brake pad carrier mounting bolts then remove the carrier. These two bolts are torqued on quite tight so you may have to use a long breaker bar to remove them.

Step 16: The rotor is only held on by a single 6mm hex bolt. Remove this bolt using the hex socket. If the bolt is difficult to remove, apply some WD-40 or similar lubricant.

Step 17: Under normal circumstances, the rotor should be able to be removed out at this point. Sometimes the rotor may be seized on and will not budge. The first thing to do is try hitting the back of the rotor (towards you) to release it.

Note: Unless you are replacing the rotors, cover the rotor with a cloth to protect the surface and use a plastic or rubber mallet to strike it. If you are replacing the rotors, use the largest hammer that you can get your hands on.

Step 18: If the rotor still isn't budging, apply some WD-40 and let it sit for about 10 minutes before retrying.

Step 19: Once the rotor is out, set it aside. If you are going to remount the existing rotors place them on a cloth to protect the surface.

Step 20: Clean the anti-rattle clip and both caliper guide bolts in degreaser then brake cleaner. Make sure that all residue is removed from the caliper guide bolts. Dry all parts.

Reinstallation

Step 21: Clean the rotors to be installed with a degreasing agent then follow with brake cleaner (both sides). Remove any residue with a clean cloth.

Step 22: Make sure to remove all traces of WD40 in the hub area if you used it.

Step 23: Clean the hub area with brake cleaner or with a wire brush.

Step 24: Clean off the parking brake shoes with a rag to release as much of the brake dust residue.

Step 25: Brush some anti-seize compound onto the centre part of the rotor that will be in contact with the hub.

Step 26: Mount the new rotor onto the hub. Try to avoid touching the rotor surface with your (dirty) hands and only hold the rotor by the edges.

Step 27: Rotate the rotor on the hub until the mounting hole lines up.

Step 28: Insert a new mounting bolt and tighten to 16 Nm.

Step 29: Reengage the parking brake (inside the car). If the parking brake handle rises more that about 4-5 "clicks", the parking brake shoes will have to be adjusted. If this is not required, proceed to step 30.

Parking Brake Adjustment

Step i: The parking brake adjuster resides in the parking brake assembly which is located inside of the rear rotors. The adjustment for the parking brake shoes is done from a small adjustment wheel that is accessible through one of the wheel bolt holes on the rotor.

Step ii: Turn the rotor so that one of the wheel bolt holes is at 12:00. Using a light, you should be able to look into the bolt hole which is immediately down and to the rear of the car and see the adjustment wheel.

Step iii: Insert a flat screwdriver into the hole and spin the adjusting wheel as follows:

* On the passenger side of the car, spin the adjusting wheel downwards
* On the driver side of the car, spin the wheel upwards

Step iv: Continue spinning the adjusting wheel until it cannot be turned any more. At this stage, the parking brake adjustment for that wheel should be fully expanded and the rotor should not turn if you try to. If the rotor spins, the adjusting wheel is not expanded to its fullest position.

Step v: Turn the adjusting wheel in the opposite direction 4 times.

Step vi: Do the same procedure on the other wheel (noting the difference in directions from the opposite wheel). This assumes that you have similarly disassembled the brake on the other side of the car.

Step vii: When these steps are completed, both rotors should spin freely (as much as is normal) and the parking brake handle should only "click" about 4-5 times when lifted.

Step viii: Keep the parking brake engaged.

Reinstallation (continued)

Step 30: Reinstall the brake pad carrier. Tighten bolts to 67 Nm.

Step 31: Apply anti-squeal lubricant to the areas of the brake pad carrier where the pads will touch. Also apply this to the back of the new brake pads.

Caution: Under no circumstances should any foreign materials such as grease get onto the rotor surface. If necessary, remove any excess anti-squeal lubricant or clean the rotor with brake cleaner.

Step 32: Insert the clips of the inner brake pad into the caliper piston making sure not to touch the brake pad surface material.

Step 33: Insert the outer brake pad into the outer slot in the brake pad carrier.

Step 34: Unclip the wire hanger from the caliper then move the caliper assembly into it's original position and over top of both brake pads.

Step 35: Reinstall the upper and lower caliper guide bolts. Torque to 30 Nm.

Step 36: Reinstall the anti-rattle clip.

Step 37: Reinstall the plastic caliper bolts caps.

Step 38: Re-attach the brake wear sensor cable to the sensor cable clip.

Step 39: Perform the same procedure on the other side.

Step 40: Reinstall both wheels (torquing the lug bolts to 110 Nm).

Step 41: Remove the jack stands from both sides and return the car to the ground.

Step 42: Start the car and pump the brakes several times to ensure that the pads are seated properly.

Step 43: Take the care for a test drive and ensure that the brakes operate smoothly.

For the first few hundred kilometres, the brakes will seems somewhat less effective than usual - this is normal. During this break in period, avoid sudden, hard stops if possible. Normal braking performance will return after the break in period.

Step 44: Clean up your tools.

joi, 25 septembrie 2008

schimbare lichid de frana


Lichidul de frina si ambreiaj trebuie inlocuit la 2 ani. Altfel absoarbe umiditate, isi pierde calitatile si mai grav poate produce coroziuni in cilindri receptori de frina cu consecinte total neplacute, etc...,etc...

Mai toata lumea inlocuieste lichidul de frina prin metoda cea mai la indemina dar si uneori cea mai costisitoare (mai tirziu)  :
1) un operator apasa frina, se face presiune in sistem si
2) al doilea operator desface supapa de pe cilindrul receptor si lichidul de frina este recuperat printr-un furtun sau tisneste prin imprejurimi.

Multi am auzit: "apasa", "dai drumul" , repetat de actionarea supapei cilindrului de frina de fiecare data.

Metoda este TOTAL CONTRAINDICATA deoarece:
1) Pedala de frina va fi actionata la maxim, garnitura de cilindrului pompei va parcurge o distanta neobisnuit de mare si mai ales va lucra intr-o zona in care "NU A MAI FOST", nu a mai lucrat, nu este rodata si sigur nu e recomandata.
Aceasta zona, care in timp, ani, poate devini usor coroziva actioneaza ca un "smirghel" pe garnitura pompei de frina.
In plus cursa mare pe o zona care nu a fost lubrifiata cu lichid de frina va crea o UZURA MARE acestei garnituri.
2) Forta uneori prea mare cu care se actioneaza asupra garniturii pompei - se apasa exagerat citeodata - mareste si mai mult uzura acestei garnituri.
3) In urma actionarilor repetate (poate 10 - 15 la fiecare roata), la fiecare "apasa", "dai drumul" se uzeaza filetul supapei aerisitorului sau zona de etansare.

CONSECINTE:
Depinzind de factorii prezentati mai sus, sigur viata garniturii cilindrului pompei de frina este scurtata sau se poate strica un aerisitor al cilindrului receptor.

Ei bine vor spune unii, dar la ambreiaj cum de functioneaza atit de mult garnitura si pe o cursa asa de mare?
Foarte corect, cursa este mare dar si suprafata cilindrului este extrem de prelucrata chiar de garnitura. In plus la fiecare actionare suprafata cilindrului este unsa cu lichid de frina (ambreiaj) si practic garnitura "merge" pe o pelicula foarte fina de lichid si uzura ei este ff mica. Fapt dovedit de practica.

ALTERNATIVE:
1) Service dotat in care se foloseste aparatul de inlocuit lichidul de frina si ambreiaj sub presiune - ideal dar uneori nu chiar la indemina.

2) Cumpararea unui aparat "one man operator" cu care un singur operator inlocuieste lichidul de frina. Costa cam 50Euro dar in Ro n-am gasit inca.

3) Confectionare rapida (vezi poza atasata)
Materiale:
- o sticla de pet de 1,5l (e mai rezistenta)
- o pompa de masina cu supapa,
- un capac de rezervor de lichid de frina si ambreiaj - IMPORTANT la E46 se potriveste cel de Dacie si costa 3RON, sau Cielo, sau se confectioneaza,
- furtun transparent (am gasit la supermaket furtun transparent la metru 1,9 RON/m)
- un manometru sa poti citi cit mai clar 0,5 - 2 bar,
- niste stuturi care pot fi inlocuite cu valve de bicicleta sau masina,
- un lipici etansant, ideal din 2 componenti,
- o garnitura de cauciuc, poate fi si din camera de bicicleta sau masina, pentru capacul de rezervor,
- putina rabdare si citeva incercari.


FUNCTIONARE
Se face presiune cu pompa. Se verifica la manometru - la BMW max. 2 bar. Lichidul din pet este trimis sub presiune, ca la un sifon, prin furtun, in capacul cu stut in vasul rezervor de lichid de frina.
Se desface aerisitorul cilindrului de frina la roata cea mai departata, Dr. spate. Lichidul va fi recuperat intr-un vas. Cind lichidul iese curat se inchide aerisitorul. Se repeta operatia la Stg. Spate, Dr. Fata, Stg. Fata si ambreiaj - aici accesul e mai greu.


RECOMANDARI:
Lichidul de frina dauneaza grav vopselei masinii - fiti foarte precauti.

Verificati intii ca sistemul este perfect etans.

Faceti o proba doar cu aer si tot sistemul montat. Presiunea trebuie sa se mentina!! Sa fiti sigur ca nu sunt scurgeri.

Dupa ce alimentati petul (sticla de plasic) cu lichid, aveti 2 posibilitati:
1) daca sticla e cu gura in sus se trimite lichid de frina sub presiune,
2) daca intoarceti sticla cu gura in jos se trimite aer sub presiune.

Daca sunt ceva scapari de aer pe la capac din cele 2 manevre puteti mentineti nivelul lichidului de frina in rezervor.
Daca sunt ceva scapari de aer comprimat la capac fiti atenti, daca iese aer nu e nimic, dar daca se termina aerul din rezervor va iesi lichid de frina si va murdareste masina.
Pregatiti-va pentru ce e mai rau: scurgeri de lichid: Sa aveti apa la indemina, citiva litri cel putin.
Sa aveti cirpe de sters la indemina
Supravegheati nivelul lichidului de frina din rezervor! Sa nu scada sub minim!!! Daca patrunde aer acesta iese greu din ABS.

Chiar daca capacul nu este perfect etans puteti folosi dispozitivul, intoarceti sticla si trimiteti aer din cind in cind, cind scade nivelul lichidului in rezervor puneti sticla cu gura in sus si trimiteti lichid.

In general e nevoie cam de 200 ml lichid la fiecare roata, cu 1 litru inlocuiti lichidul la 4 roti si ambreiaj.

Sistemul merge perfect. Este foarte curat, totul este transparent si vezi exact ce faci. Eu l-am folosit cu succes la 3 BMW-uri si am folosit presiune de 2 bar ca in carte. Dar pentru siguranta - mi-a fost frica sa nu se sparga capacul de rezervor de Dacie - am micsorat presiunea la 0,7 bar. Lichidul poate fi inlocuit si la 0,5 bar dar o viteza ceva mai mare curata mai bine sistemul. Am inlocuit fara probleme lichidul de frina, nu am avut probleme cu ABS sau DSC.
Pet-ul rezista si la presiune mare, sunt unii care il folosesc sticle de 2 litri la sifoane si sifonul atinge si 8 bar.
Pentru siguranta am folosit un pet de 1,5 litri, are diametrul mai mic si solicitarile materialului sunt mai reduse.

Dispozitivul urmator, mai avansat va fi faut dintr-o pompa de spray, cumparata din supermarket (vezi poza 2).

Daca incercati, faceti incercari doar cu aer prima oara si fiti precauti - nu strica!





( sursa: aici )

vineri, 19 septembrie 2008

Removing BMW E36 Glove box


For the benefit of anyone out there that is having as much difficulty as I did in removing their glovebox (and then locating the “grommet” that allows you to run power lines from your fuse box to head unit etc.), I’ve produced a picture-rich how-to guide.

 

Ok, there are three different configurations of glovebox. Two (I think) correspond to those cars without a passenger airbag. The main differences for these and the type I describe below are:

 

1) neither have a retaining bolt (E) behind the interior glovebox light

2) the vents themselves (but not the entire assembly) may be pulled off to allow access to the screws A and B in the diagrams below

3) you may have to remove the kick panel by the door

 

I can’t give exact descriptions for these, since I don’t have that type of glovebox!

 

Anyway, first things first, let’s look at the glovebox as it is and locate the screws we need to remove:



There are three different type of screws, together with E, which is a 10mm bolt (I think it was 10mm – can’t quite remember now). It is important to get the correct screws back in the correct places, otherwise the plastic caps over screws C and D will not go back on. The three screw types look like this:




I’d recommend removing screws H and I first of all, since it’s easier to do this with the glovebox door closed. They’re under the glovebox (you should be able to feel them – they’re more or less where screws F and G are, except beneath the actual glovebox, and a little way back).

Next, I’d take off screws A and B – they’re pretty easy to do, as long as you have a reasonably long, thin screwdriver. They are in the top left & right corners of the left & right passenger vents, respectively:



Then we can remove the vent assembly by taking off the plastic caps for screws C and D (in the picture above, screw D still has the plastic cap on) and then removing the screws beneath. The vent assembly should then just pull out; there are a couple of clips, but with a couple of seconds of patience, it comes off pretty easily. Then we’re left with the glovebox itself: 




This is retained my the two remaining screws near the hinges and the bolt that is hidden under the interior light. In addition to these, there are two wires that supply power to the interior light and flashlight charger that need to be removed. First the interior light:




The interior light is very easy to remove when you find the indentation that is on the left edge, at the back of the light. Prise the light out with a flat bladed screwdriver. Be careful when removing the light itself now, and be sure to disconnect the power lines from the back. In the middle of the recess that held the interior light, there should be a 10mm (I think) bolt, which holds the glovebox onto the metal chassis supporting the airbag assembly. Locate this bolt with your fingers and then, using a wrench (I doubt you’ll be able to get to it using a spanner), unscrew the bolt.

 

Now we can remove the final two screws by the hinges, which can be removed with either an offset screwdriver or a long regular screwdriver:


Now, the whole glovebox interior should begin to pull out. The only thing left to do is to pull the interior light clear and remove the flashlight charger. Press the clips indicated on the picture earlier with a flat-bladed screwdriver, and pull the back of the charger connector:




Now we have access to the electrics, should you wish to meddle. While we’re here, I can show you how to get to the mystical grommet that allows access to the engine bay (I routed some dedicated 20 Amp power lines for my Alpine head unit this way). Remove the horizontal kick panel just under the glovebox by pulling (it was secured by screws H and I, which we removed at the beginning of this process):



As you can see from the picture above, the access hole is beneath the carpet (not the mat, but the actual carpet – it just pulls back if you tug it hard enough) and under its attached heat-retardent foam. It is covered by a round plastic cover (which, incidentally is an exact fit over the cigarette lighter – I’ve now used that to make my car a no-smoking one!). This plastic cover just pulls off, revealing a hole. If you put your finger inside this hole you should feel a metal pipe running upwards (I think it was at about 270° to 315°). If you push a red (or other brightly coloured cable) up here, you should see it appear eventually in the engine bay. Note that if you want to run a black cable as well (and I can see the reason for only running one cable, personally), I’d recommend taping the end of the cables together and pushing them up together. This saves time, and the black cable is very hard to spot when it comes out in the engine bay. Power can then be routed from the fuse box connector (just under the lid of the box – held by a 12mm bolt, I think, and requires a 10mm ring connector on the red cable) and the chassis bolt near the air filter (8mm bolt I think, needing a 6mm ring connector on the black).

 

As for the other end of the power cables, this may be obvious advice, but I’d STRONGLY recommend using female connectors (bullets are perfect). The last thing you want is to use exposed males that end up touching and shorting out the fuse box!

 

Once you’re done, the reassembly is a relatively easy task. However, in order to make sure your glovebox closes do not just reverse the order in which you did everything. The reason being is that the vent assembly (that clips on above the glovebox) has four plastic clips that will almost certainly not fully latch on to the glovebox interior.

 

First of all, if you’ve removed the horizontal kickpanel below the glovebox, reattach this (although do not screw it back in yet, since these screws also hold the bottom of the glovebox, which you have not put back yet). Now, take the vent assembly and turn it over so you’re looking at the back. You should see four clips, two small ones at the top of the assembly and two wider ones at the bottom. Chances are, the ones at the bottom have been bent outwards (away from the rest of the vent assembly) when you removed the plastic unit.




Carefully bend back the clip so that it forms an 80 or so degree angle (rather than the 100+ degree angle it was after removing the assembly). The picture below should make it clearer.



Once you’ve bent the bottom clips over, you’re ready to mount the vent assembly on to the glovebox interior (you need to do this before screwing the interior back in to make sure all four clips have taken). Now, reattach the combined glovebox interior and vent assembly into the hole (be careful to make sure the prongs at the bottom of the glovebox fit back inside the horizontal kickpanel piece). I then screwed back bolt E (into the hole left by the interior light), since on mine this required a bit of play in the glovebox to get the thing back into the hole. Then, it’s a simple matter of replacing all the remaining screws. Be careful when putting screws A and B back, as the screws can end up falling inside the vents. Make sure you close the vents first, and just take your time. If the vents are closed, you should be able to retrieve any dropped screws without having to remove the whole unit.

 

Finally, your reassembled glovebox should look as good as (or better than) new. Congratulations!




(Sursa: aici)